Though the head chef previously worked for Austrian Airlines, the food at P&O’s One is far from airline food. However, the disco lights from the bar downstairs do impinge on the dining experience for any guests sitting on the balcony. As one might expect from European cuisine, the main courses are great for carnivores. The cordon bleu served with potatoes and salad (RMB 100) was reassuringly substantial in size and the proportion of breadcrumbs to chicken to cheese was perfect. A whole lot easier to eat than it is to say, the Zwiebelrostbrat (RMB 130) – a nice tender piece of beef with well-prepared crisp onions, pan-fried potatoes and vegetables – went down well. We had just enough room left for the excellent Mohr im Hemd (chocolate hazelnut pudding) dessert (RMB 65). The food at P&O’s One is certainly hearty, but it’s hard to say whether it justifies the hefty price tag. Simon Fowler
Verdict: Fills the tummy but empties the wallet
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